It’s rather tricky to imagine, however, the Patek Philippe 5270 is in fact the simplest perpetual calendar chronograph of the group; bear in mind that both other references with these complications also comprise a split-second (ref. 5204) or a minute repeater (ref. 5208). Certainly, however, the 5270 is not a easy watch. It’s the most recent edition in a very long lineage that began with the mention 1518, the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph, introduced in the middle of the 1940s. This extremely rare bird was created for only 13 years, in 281 pieces, and includes a movement based on a Valjoux ébauche but highly modified and adorned with the Geneva Seal. Very similar in design, the 3970 along with the 5970 came after that, with minor improvements and updated shapes. However, in 2011, the 5270 added something quite intriguing for this classical version: an in-house motion. No more Valjoux or Lemania base, but rather pure Patek Philippe.Make no error about this Patek Philippe 5270. Even though it appears very similar to the previous mention, nothing is the same. The design, design, movement, instance, size… what’s brand new, but remains classical. Patek Philippe chose not to violate the codes, but planned to enhance and update an icon, when it introduced this reference in 2011 with a silver-white dial. In 2014, Patek Philippe has come out with fresh dials, including the blue one we had the chance to manage for some hours.Before this brand new mention surfaced, Patek Philippe would normally electricity its chronographs using a Lemania-based movement, Caliber 27-70. Even if that ébauche was profoundly altered, both on the technical and finishing fronts, Patek at one point decided it could not outsource in an age in which the expression “in house” has gained so much importance. So that the brand created a completely homemade motion, developed and fabricated in-house — i.e., a manufacture movement. Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q is a 32-mm manually wound engine that’s impressive not just because of its own complications, but also because of the caliber of its own finishing. Much like every modern Patek Philippe view, it’s adorned with the Patek Philippe Seal. As we told you recently, the strictest of quality control standards are exerted in the manufacturing of each and every component of the watch — the movement, the case, dial, hands, et al. — together with rigorous standards applied to shape, operate, and accuracy.
6006G, which gets about as close to whimsical as a simple date and time watch from the newest can really get.The Calatrava Ref. 6000 which premiered back in 2005. Aesthetically similar to the outgoing 6000 series, the significant shift in the 6006 is the much-needed size update to 39mm out of 37mm. I think even those people who prefer a more timeless sized watch would concur that 39mm is a good compromise for a contemporary dress watch. In any case, if you’re not a fan of 39mm, I’m sure that you can find an older 6000 outside there.Now, onto the dialup, which has four unique surfaces. The black, almost-grainy outermost ring indicates that the date in Arabic numerals and you will notice the date hand pointing into the 18th from the image above. The red-lacquered arrow hand replaces the lunar crescent, which I think is a good move here since the arrow matches the aesthetic design of this watch much more here. Moving inward from the date ring is the circular brushed hour ring using a larger number ribbon in Arabic numerals to indicate the hours.Moving further inward is the moments scale, which is white (almost silvery) with a circular guilloché pattern. This exact same design extends to the seconds subdial that stocks the ring design of the moments scale. You can even observe the round guilloché pattern extending out from the middle of those seconds subdial. This all results in a richly textured and lively dial which would otherwise collapse flat considering the two-tone color scheme here.You’ll observe the off-centered seconds subdial between 4 and 5 o’clock and this was among the primary distinguishing features of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5000, which was the opinion that preceded the now-outgoing Ref. 6000. 5000 utilized the 240 PS motion, which was characterized with this off-center seconds sub-dial. Among the most welcome refreshes from the Ref. 6006 is the usage of fresh wide, skeletonized hour and minute hands.
Having unveiled the Classique 7147 with a delicately beautiful enamel dial earlier in the year, Breguet has now dropped an enamel dial version of the thinnest automatic tourbillon on the market. Originally introduced in 2013 with a guilloché dial (as the ref. 5377), the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 checks in at just 7.45mm thick, case and all.
Measuring 42mm in diameter, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is available in both platinum and rose gold, in the classic Breguet style with a narrow bezel, straight lugs and reeded caseband.
The only difference lies in the dial, which is now grand feu enamel and rid of its power reserve indicator. It features the same off-centre layout as on the guilloche version – a feature found on many historical excentré Breguet pocket watches – but with Breguet numerals in black lacquer. And the minute track is again inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches, with tiny lozenges for the quarters and a mystical symbol every five minutes.
The watch is powered by the cal. 581 that has a tourbillon regulator running at 4Hz. In contrast to the understated dial, the movement is richly decorated – the bridges, barrel and oscillating weight are all hand-engraved.
While the dial is classically styled, the tourbillon is contemporary in construction and materials. The tourbillon cage is made of titanium, with both the balance spring and lever escapement made of silicon. And the barrel mounted on roller bearings instead of a traditional pivot point – helping the movement stay remarkably thin – while still managing an impressive 80-hour power reserve.
Another reason the movement measures just 3mm thick is the peripheral winding system. The narrow, semi-circular platinum rotor is mounted around the edge of the calibre, instead of adding height on top of the movement bridges.
Price and Availability
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 (ref. 5367BR299WU) is expected to be priced slightly lower than the existing model with a guilloche dial, which costs US$149,500 or S$214,800 in pink gold.