When the chronograph’s beginning pusher is engaged, the pillar wheel below the cap moves, hence dropping this arm in between the column wheel’s columns, therefore moving the second of the two driving wheels slightly so that it begins to mesh together with the wheel at the center. The distance traveled by this arm needs painstaking fine-tuning, something this limit is to assist with — although I’d still prefer to see a well-working chronograph with an exposed pillar wheel. I think that’s enough column wheel discussion for the day.The beauty of a hand-wound chronograph is that you get to have all of the eye-candy. There is not a fiddly rotor always in the way. Power reserve of this CH 29-535 PS is at least 65 hours, allowing the Gyromax balance and Breguet-style hairspring to do their 4Hz ballet for well more than fourteen days. Sixty-five hours is enough to produce the 5170P last from Friday evening until Monday morning — a feat each high-end watch wider than 36mm if provide.All the functionality aside, the 29-535 is indeed beautiful, I would go so far as to say it’s a must have in every collector’s livelihood. Not necessarily a life keeper, but a benchmark for each contemporary high-end chronograph. None ought to be a copy of the, do not get me wrong, but any modifications done to this layout and these proportions should be encouraged by strong reasons — improved functionality, higher performance, etc.. Few movements bother with proportions, let alone proportions contrary to case dimensions, but here things are just right. The huge balance wheel found in Patek chronographs of older surely add a more traditional flair, but if you would like modern frequency and balance wheel layout, you have to take a smaller balance as a reasonable compromise.Returning to the dial side only for one more serious passing, the Patek Philippe 5170P is an intriguing creature. The watch market as it’s suffers no shortage of platinum-clad, diamond-brazen watches — but something is telling me nobody at the hippie-hoppie music industry will be seen rocking the 5170P in any of the movies anytime soon.
Having unveiled the first ever Tradition for ladies not too long ago at Baselworld, Breguet has just announced another variant of the model for Baselworld 2017 that takes place in March next year.
While the first Tradition Dame 7038 was in white gold with a blue-grey mother of pearl dial, the latest version offers a rosier look. The case is 18k pink gold and the dial is an iridescent white mother of pearl decorated with hobnail guilloche in the centre.
The rest of the watch remains the same as the original model, with the 37mm case featuring a bezel set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds and a crown topped with a synthetic ruby of the sort used in watch movements.
Plated in rhodium for a bright silvery finish, the movement is the calibre 505SR that’s automatic and equipped with the pallet fork and hairspring in magnetism-resistant silicon.
Price and availability
The new Tradition Dame 7038 should be available sometime in 2017. Though the price has not been announced, the first version cost US$38,900 or SS$55,900, so expect this to be priced similarly.